As we wander between the plantings of Zanizbar’s spice fields our local guide (turned MD) is dispensing homeopathic advice. Each crop that we pass has its own purported benefits – ‘red cinnamon bark for cholesterol,’ ‘cloves for nausea,’ ‘nutmeg for restoring strength,’ and lemongrass for a particular kind of urinary problem described to us in more detail than warrants repeating on a blog about food. ‘And what’s this good for?’ I venture, leaning down to examine a tiny chilli plant crowned with fiery-looking red pods. ‘Keeping warm in the rainy season,’ comes the answer. Well, fair enough. ‘It is also,’ he adds, ‘very good for chutney.’ Now we are talking, and looking out across the loosely ordered spice groves interspersed with tropical fruit trees and coconut palms, the whole place seems suddenly to offer up a zillion different chutney combinations just waiting to be trialled. Fortunately, at this point our guide reveals that he is the son of chef, and swaps the medical advice for chutney preparation tips...