The sun always shines over the coral fringed beaches of Zanizbar’s coast, but high in the hilly central hinterlands, where spice plantations stretch as far as the eye can see, angry tropical clouds gather, and clump, then fitfully spit down sudden bursts of warm rain. We’ve taken refuge under the umbrella of an enormous banana leaf, but this shelter is partial at best - as the leaf fills with the heavy drops, little cascades form along the edges, overflowing to drench any part not securely ensconced beneath the centre of the palm. Fortunately though, the deluge is over as suddenly as it began, and with the coming of the sun, we spot our guide to Zanzibar’s spice fields emerging from a similar leaf shelter and walking over to meet us...