I’ve seen more snow this year I think than ever before. Not just on the ground (though there has been a lot of that), but snow actually falling, great white wafts of the stuff thickening and brightening the air. Unluckily, this has not resulted in my having become snowed-in at any stage – which I’ve always thought sounds like quite a lot of fun. Instead, for the most part, it seems as though I’ve been in a car during most of these incredible snow falls, either driving or as a passenger, and that experience has led me to conclude a few things…
Read MoreCarnevale di Venezia
The noise is audible from inside the train carriage as we glide across the Ponte della Libertà and into Santa Lucia station. Whistles, horns, drums, occasional shouts, festive choruses, and bursts of laughter. With too much luggage in tow, I disembark the train. From the top of the station steps the scene below is arresting – a full-swing masquerade party is in motion on the streets. Women in curled white wigs and enormous bustles, men in every manner of decorative mask, and children decorously dressed as little barons and baronesses (or less decorously, and more frequently, as little superheroes!).
It is the central weekend of the Carnevale di Venezia, an unseasonably warm and bright day in February, and, I now realize, the entirely wrong day on which arrive needing to traverse Venice carrying three weeks worth of luggage. My plan had simply been to stride down the stairs, onto a waiting vaporetto, disembark at the Rialto, and be all settled into my temporary new home in the space of thirty minutes. With the normally efficient railway piazza transformed into an uncrossable terrain of revelry however, there is simply no option but for me and my baggage to join in the festive crush of human traffic, and get pushed where the flow is to take us…
Read MoreA Week For Dairy
Last time I wrote about travelling to our Coomboona farm, I likened the experience to Alice’s falling down the rabbit hole to Wonderland. I was speaking metaphorically of course, there was never actually any white rabbit, until this trip, when, in a strange instance of life intimating art, there suddenly was…
Read MoreVenice by Cicchetti – A Tour with Recipes
The Venetian light, ethereal and translucent as it shimmers off the shallow waters of the lagoon, has been the focus of much praise in literature and art. In ‘Death in Venice,’ Thomas Mann describes a ‘vaulted sky of delicate azure and utter purity,’ light like ‘dazzling crystals dancing;’ while Turner’s famous Venetian watercolours depict the city always through a veil of golden mist, sparkling evaporate blurring the skyline of distantly visible spires and campaniles. This trip however, after the fete days of Christmas have passed, and the fireworks and festivities of New Year’s have given way to the inevitable hangover, we encounter La Bella Venezia in an altogether different mood...
Read MoreA Swiss Boxing Day Supper
We arrived in Zermatt on Christmas Eve just as twilight was giving way to night. High cloud and darkening skies obscured the towering Matterhorn from view, but, ‘tomorrow,’ we said, looking out the window, ‘we’ll be able see it then, just like on the Tolberone, rising there to the right, or is it maybe just to the left?’ ‘Well, we’ll see, tomorrow.’ And then the first flakes of snow started to fall…
Read MoreCooking in Coomboona
My Mum lives in a place called Coomboona – though very little evidence exists to confirm that this is even a ‘place’. You can't get there following road signs, for Coomboona has no signage to indicate its existence; there is no township; no post office (though legend has it that there was one, once); and Google Maps is in the unfriendly habit of ignoring us altogether in favour of adding the prefix ‘North’ to the name of the nearest town (a substantial distance away) and lumping us in with them. For all of this though, Coomboona is what the place has always been called, and despite its apparent obscurity, it’s not all that difficult to get to from Melbourne … or not until the very last minute at least. Heading north for about 2hrs or 200 kilometres on the huge corridor of the Hume Highway, Coomboona is just one exit away. Well, one exit, and one barely marked little right hand turn.
The road onto which this hidden turn takes you is very long, and runs straight as a die. A distant line of bush shimmers at its end, glimmering green forest gums marking the edge of the Goulburn river. The straight set of the road is deceptive though, for as you drive along, a circuitous cast of characters and scenes to rival Alice’s experience in Wonderland appear out the window to either side...
Read MoreKenyan Safari Picnic
It is 30 minutes by Land Rover from the local airstrip to Naboisho Camp, unless it is your first time on safari, in which case it is a 2 hour drive. Or so we are told by the local guide who has driven out to meet the little propeller plane in which we have just traveled from Nairobi. At first, I can't quite work out what this slightly enigmatic statement might mean, but two minutes later, and a few hundred metres from the airstrip away, when we spot a group of giraffes and I am standing on the seat of the car, head out of the open roof, taking the first of what will be hundreds of giraffe pictures, the mystery is promptly solved. Another minute later with only a further ten metres driven, two bull elephants come crashing picturesquely through the undergrowth. Our guide stops and resignedly turns off the engine completely - 2 hours suddenly began to seem like an optimistic estimate...
Read MoreZanzibari Feast, Part II
The movement of the tides may dictate daily life on Zanzibar, but the island’s historical life owes more to another natural phenomenon – the winds. The first colonisers to blow in on the breeze were Arabs and Persians in the 9th century. Their dhows brought previously unknown spices, citrus, and tropical fruit, but by the 15th and 16th century, with Portuguese colonisation sweeping East Africa, dhows were replaced by galleons, and recently acquired South American staple foods such as maize and manioc were added to the mix. Next to arrive were the Omanis whom, courtesy of established trade routes with India, introduced new East Asian spices, and established Zanzibar as in important port in the global spice trade. Along with the spices came the recipes to utilise them, and, by the end of the 17th century, samosas, curry, masala, and biryani were being made in kitchens all over the island, adapted to suit the local ingredients, and influenced by the Arabian and Portuguese inflected cuisines that had come before...
Read MoreZanzibari Feast, Part I
Life on Zanzibar’s shores moves in rhythm with the tides. At high tide, when the sea rises to just cover the fringing reef, local sailing dhows or ngalawa, set off to fish the deeper waters beyond the reef. After they’ve set sail and the tide begins to drop, the beach extends outwards, doubling, then tripling in size to form a series of shallow pools in which a variety of marine creatures find themselves temporarily trapped. At lowest spring tide, these shallow pools formed by rock, reef, and sand, extend all the way out to the barrier of fringing reef itself. When this happens, and it is possible to walk out for hundreds of metres where there was water only hours before, coastal villagers come down to the beach to comb the rich pickings offered by the pools. Armed with nets, buckets, sacks, and hands, octopus are grabbed from beneath rocks, crabs are quickly gathered up into bags, and clams expertly prised from their rocky holds. Then, as high water begins to sneak back over the reef, progressively deepening the pools and forcing the foragers ashore, the task of trading on the morning’s pickings begins just a little further up the beach….
Read MoreTrio of Zanzibar Spice Chutneys
As we wander between the plantings of Zanizbar’s spice fields our local guide (turned MD) is dispensing homeopathic advice. Each crop that we pass has its own purported benefits – ‘red cinnamon bark for cholesterol,’ ‘cloves for nausea,’ ‘nutmeg for restoring strength,’ and lemongrass for a particular kind of urinary problem described to us in more detail than warrants repeating on a blog about food. ‘And what’s this good for?’ I venture, leaning down to examine a tiny chilli plant crowned with fiery-looking red pods. ‘Keeping warm in the rainy season,’ comes the answer. Well, fair enough. ‘It is also,’ he adds, ‘very good for chutney.’ Now we are talking, and looking out across the loosely ordered spice groves interspersed with tropical fruit trees and coconut palms, the whole place seems suddenly to offer up a zillion different chutney combinations just waiting to be trialled. Fortunately, at this point our guide reveals that he is the son of chef, and swaps the medical advice for chutney preparation tips...
Read MoreThe 'Real' Spice Island Spice Cake
The sun always shines over the coral fringed beaches of Zanizbar’s coast, but high in the hilly central hinterlands, where spice plantations stretch as far as the eye can see, angry tropical clouds gather, and clump, then fitfully spit down sudden bursts of warm rain. We’ve taken refuge under the umbrella of an enormous banana leaf, but this shelter is partial at best - as the leaf fills with the heavy drops, little cascades form along the edges, overflowing to drench any part not securely ensconced beneath the centre of the palm. Fortunately though, the deluge is over as suddenly as it began, and with the coming of the sun, we spot our guide to Zanzibar’s spice fields emerging from a similar leaf shelter and walking over to meet us...
Read More'Zanzibar Dreaming' Spice Cake
Or, Banana-Chocolate-Marble-Spice Cake, or (my favourite name of all for it), Ballistically-Excited-Holiday-Food-Pre-Emption Cake. You see, at the time that this post is set to auto-publish, I will be about to touch down on the tropical island of Zanzibar! But, going back in time to (the present?), I’m still just sat at home in Qatar getting ridiculously excited about the whole trip. (Though not, of course, funnelling any of this excitement into the useful activity of packing. Because the only thing worse than packing is unpacking. But not to worry too much about unpacking just yet as that really is getting too far ahead). Instead of packing, and not entirely unpredictably, what I am doing is reading about Zanzibari food, and, in particular, how the rule of different colonising powers, as well as Zanizbar’s role in the spice trade, has resulted in a unique kind of island-fusion cuisine.
Read MoreCrispy Pork Belly with Pedro Ximenez Pinto Beans
This is a dish for lovers of meat. Not just because pork belly is a pretty full-on and flavoursome cut, but, and perhaps more so, because the prep for this dish involves getting pretty friendly with the meat before cooking it. Specifically, you have to give it a blow dry… but more on that in a second.
Read MoreFantasy Ayran & Turkish Delight
After all those mezze plates, some Turkish desserts are definitely in order! Ayran, as I now know, (but did not know on my first day in Turkey), is not a dessert. It is the opposite of a dessert. What I was right about, is that it is served chilled and made from blended yogurt. But, what I didn’t know, is that this is flavoured with salt, and sometimes, raw garlic. So, when I confidently ordered my first ayran, expecting a sweet little beverage with which to end my very first meal in Istanbul, I was alarmed to get a mouthful of thick and salty natural yogurt. Thankfully, I was fortunate enough to have been spared the garlic!
Read MoreModern Turkish Mezze
33 hours in Istanbul meant time for only one dinner ! Concerned that this be as delicious as possible, we booked into Lokanta Maya in the up-and-coming area of Karakӧy (a big thanks to our friends Lilly & Ben for recommending). Not your traditional Turkish restaurant, Maya was modern, minimalist and colourful – the usual mezze suspects were all present and accounted for, but re-invented so they were lighter, fresher, more delicately flavoured, and much more beautifully presented. After an incredible meal, every delicious little plate followed by another, and yet another, I climbed into the cab home, head spinning with ideas (and several kinds of wine) and started plotting how I might go about creating my own version of the meal back home in Doha…
Read More33 Hours in Istanbul...
No where near enough time to explore a city so historic, so beautiful, and so packed with delicious things to eat! Fortunately, food plays such an important part in the street culture of the city that you never have to look very far for it. More often than not, the food actually finds you... Ten minutes out of the airport, already stuck in the infamous Istanbul traffic, I looked out the taxi window to see a vendor sat casually behind a folding table piled with baked goods in the centre of the four-lane expressway. I spotted the sesame-encrusted simits that I had read about amongst the breads, but, as luck would have it, the traffic finally lurched forward, and my first simit was going to have to wait another hour or so...
Read MoreMushrooms, Hazelnuts, & Polenta
This is a recipe I’ve created for my sister, the brilliant Melbourne-based fashion designer (and vegetarian!) Livia Arena. She’s been a huge help in setting up this site, (she seems to end up helping me with most things), and food is the only scant means of re-payment I have…
Read MoreSo, here goes...
In the past, I have been pretty rubbish about writing things down. To make myself feel better about this, I’ve often made the argument that it is better to just ‘live in the moment,’ to experience life as opposed to worrying about recording it. My cooking, especially, has always fallen firmly within this ‘experience’ philosophy – I don’t like to measure anything, or follow written recipes, instead I’ve tended to just make things up on the go…
Read More